Shoewear and process of manufacturing the same



Sept. 24, 1929. BRAUN 1,729,204

SHOEWEAR AND PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME Filed April 25, 1927 /n u en for: flit/7 Bmun Patented Sept. 24, 1929 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ERICK BRAUN, OF BERLIN, GERMANY SHO EWEAR AND PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME Application filed April 25, 1927, Serial No. 188,524, and in- Germany May 15, 1926.

This invention relates to a method of making shoes, etc. The new and essential part of this invention consists in sewin a comparatively wide tape on to the edge the upper in place of the tacking-edge. The sole is stuck or sewn on to the tape, thus preventing the seam from being seen at all. A cord may be put round the inside edge of the tape in the usual manner.

The invention is demonstrated by the accompanying drawings.

Fig. 1 shows the under section of a sli pe with a band or tape taking the place 0 the usual tacking-edge.

Fig. 2 is a cross sectional view showing the band or tape secured to the inner surface of the upper in the vicinity of its edge.

Fig. 3 is a cross section of a modified form in which the tape is secured to theqouter sur-' face of the upper in the vicinity of its lower edge and then turned downwardly and inwardly to replace the tacking edge of the upper.

Fig. 4 is a similar cross section to Figure 3 only showing the tape turned downwardly, pulled inwardly and the sole a plied thereto.

Fig. 5 is a cross section of a urther modification in which the tape is securedto the outside surface of the upper at a comparatively considerable distance above-the edge thereofwhereby a portion of the tape will be exposed.

Like characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in thedifierent views. In Fig. 1 instead of the tacking-edge of the upper only a band or tape d is sewn on to the edge 0 of the upper b. To this band or tape a. thin cord 9 has been attached or woven along the inside edge. By means of this cord which terminates in the twoends g, g it is now possible after the upper has been put on the last, by means of a single pull at one of the ends 9 or g, to adjust the upper on the last, so that the sole can be stuck or sewn on the tackingedge d immediately. If desired a sock lining can be added. v

The workmanship is cleaner still if in accordance with Fig. 2 1 the upper, and the tape in place of the sole is thus turned in and pulled over the last. While in Figure 2 the tape is shown as stitched to the inside of the -sol upper in the vicinity of its edge, it is possible to sew this sole-tape or band not only on to the bottom edge of the upper, but also to fix it at any height desired above the lower sole edge and then pull the tape down over the last (Fig. 5). When the ribbon is visible it is suggested to' give it an ornamental border i. Then the outside sole is secured. to the turned in edge of the tape, either by stitching or better still by gumming. This latter method is of special importance, not only for the sake of appearance, allowing of an ornamental cdge being inserted between upper and sole,

but is also of important advantage in the production of shoes with rubber soles and edges. In this case the tape (l is first impregnated with rubber cement so that after the edge of the band has been turned in the rubber sole can be attached directly on to same.

On the Whole, this new method eficcls a great saving as regards material. The tacking Qdge'usually averages /1 and welted work requires usually an edgcof about In the present method an edge of only is sutlicient. Hence for a certain size in ladies" slippers one must reckon for a dozen pairs square feet of leather for rivet work, and 13 square feet. for welt work, whilst for the present invention 10 square feet suffices. In the same way there is a considerable saving in regard to the sole. of turned shoes, the sole had to be channelled and turned, and sewn through in the case of sewn and doubled slippers. In both cases the sole had to be considerably thicker than is really necessary. This new method, however, of gumming on the sole makes it possible to employ a muchthinner out-sole,pwhich is important when producing light travellingslippers. In the case of shoes where the edge the upper has to be attached on to the d without previously sewing on the tape, the edge had to be roughed and then carefully smeared over by hand with an adhesive solu-. tion. Against this the present method has Hitherto, in the case .the advantage of dispensing with the edge and also with roughing. It suffices to smear the bottom of the sole mechanically with the adhesive and then press it on to the shoewhilst on the last. Finally another advantage which shoes made according to this new method possess is that these can be easily repaired. According to the methods hitherto employed, slippers with turned soles had to be turned back, a new sole used, and after that the upper had to be turned back into its original position again. Thereby the slippers were greatly damaged and the repairing of same comparatively expensive. On slippers produced under this new method however, a patch can be sewn on without the uppers having to be turned. This new invention may be used in various ways. For instance, it is possible to fasten the sole on to the ta e by sewing instead of by gumming. In this case it is possible to aifix a stiff cap both at the front and at the back.

I claim 1. A shoe, comprising an upper, a tap secured to and extending inwardly from the lower margin of the upper, a lasting cord extending lengthwise through substantially the entire tape and an outer sole secured only to said tape.

2. A shoe comprising an upper, cut so that its lower marginal edge terminates substantially at the lower marginal sole edge of the last, a flexible textile'tape secured to and extending inwardlyfrom the lower margin of the upper, a lasting cord extending lengthwise through substantially the entire. free inside edge of the said tape and an outer sole secured to said tape.

3. A shoe comprising an upper, cut so that its lower marginal edge terminates substantially at the lower marginal sole ed e of the last, a tape secured to and extending inwardly from the lower margin of the upper, a lasting cord extending lengthwise through substantially the entire tape and an outer sole secured to and covering the said tape which is not visible at all on the finished shoe.

4. A process of manufacturing shoewear, which comprises securing a textile tape having a lasting cord extending lengthwise on the inside edge of the tape. to the lower marginal edge of an upper, cut so that its lower marginal edge terminates substantially at the lower marginal sole edge of the last, putting the upper with the textile tape on the last, stretching the said textile tape over the last, by pulling the ends of the cord extended lengthwise on the inside edge of the tape, and securing the outer sole to the said tape so that it covers the tape entirely.

In testimony whereof I have aflixed my signature.

ERICH BRAUN. 

